Aleria Update 2

2. Bom Dia from Lisboa!

Last time we wrote, we were in NW Spain near Corcubion off Cabo Finisterre. As it turned out, that was our favorite stop in Spain.

We spent the next week cruising the lovely rivers along this stretch of coastal Galicia. Each was a comfortable days' sail from the last. From Finisterre, we sailed to the Ria Arousa, the largest of the rivers which are more like bays. There are craggy islands at the mouth of each of the rivers forming natural breakwaters which are now protected marine sanctuaries. The October weather was mild and pleasant for the most part.

We stopped at the port of Santa Uxia de Ribeira, which we learned is the second largest commercial port (fishing) in Spain. We anchored off a lovely beach lined with a busy promenade and restaurants. We tried to check in with the Harbourmaster's office, but they sent us to the Puerto Officina. The PO's jurisdiction, they told us, ends 50m from the harbour and, as we were anchored beyond that, they couldn't help us and told us to go the harbourmaster! When we explained, he said that because we're travelling within the EU it's not an issue and not to worry. So we bought a Spanish courtesy flag and had our first Estrella cervesas with gigantic scrumptious local mussels for lunch.

Armed with fresh provisions from the local fish market - amazing huge central market that supplies fresh fish to much of the continent - we went back to Aleria. At 8pm as we were enjoying our sunset cocktail, an ominous looking stealth boat (painted flat black, no running lights, monstrous go fast boat) skillfully approached us. It was customs and two officials asked for permission to come aboard, which we granted. (We were glad to have our courtesy flag.) They were the nicest guys. We laughed about the language issues. They apologized about the length of the forms - just formality for statistical purposes. We complimented their boat, of which they were very proud. They complimented our boat. All in all, the officials in Spain - coast guard, marine police, customs, etc. - could not have been nicer...and they had the most sophisticated vessels. Very impressive. Some of you would be jealous.

We awoke the next morning to a rolly anchorage. Rather than exploring the Ria Arousa, we opted to save that for another trip when we could include a pilgrimmage to Santiago de Campostella. That would have taken more time than we could afford as we needed to make our way South.

Our next stop was the Ria de Vigo. Vigo is a city built straight up a hill like San Francisco. We anchored near Cangas, a nice resort village with miles long beaches just across the river. A ferry goes back and forth all day. There is a commercial harbour and a yachting/watersports harbour which proved covenient. The small but friendly Club Nautico de Rodeira became our base for a few days. We were becalmed here and took the opportunity to do some laundry and reprovisioning.

After the calm came unsettled weather and heavy seas, so we decided to explore Bayona (or Baiona), home port of the Pinta, almost at the mouth of the Ria de Viga. What an amazing town. The harbour is formed by a promontory completely occupied by a medieval walled castle. On the premises are the Monte Real Club de Yates Bayona (Royal YC of Bayona). Wow!!! The grounds are fantastic. Although they do not offer reciprocal priviledges for their facilities, they allowed us to use their docks from which to explore the castle grounds. Amazing vistas. The Club was running an international match racing event and it was interesting to watch in squalls, huge swell and thunderstorms.

Bayona's waterfront is wall to wall upscale shops, bars and restaurants. The next street up is the place of local character with a string of tiny bars and intriguing little restaurants. We could imagine the sailors of the Pinta knocking back their pints centuries ago. We had a great local seafood dinner of deep fried fish and steamed langoustines. Yum.

We were able to fuel up and take on fresh water at the Club Nautico Desportivo which was a blessing. We were ready to go. But as we set out, the wind veered dead on the nose in monstrous confused seas. We turned back and enjoyed another day in Bayona. The next day the seas we're still huge but more settled and the wind was northerly. Perfect for the passage south along Portugal.

We had a great first day sailing down the Iberian coast. There aren't many ports, with the first half mountainous and the second flat wetlands. We opted to pass by Lexois near Porto and continue to Lisbon. Oh my! Contrary to forecast, the wind veered after the second day and once again we were tacking along the coast. So the last day took twice as long!

The nights at sea were dark with a new moon. The only thing you could see were the lights of passing ships and the bioluminescent creatures lighting up the wake. Here, Alex had an amazing experience with large dolphins playing in our wake. Their paths through the water were illuminated by the noctilucans. He could see them spiraling and jumping by their luminescent trails. Then he noticed something else. There were thousands of little fish jumping out of the water. When he lit them up with the flood light, he could see thousands of eyes jumping out of the water all around. The flying fish were still there when I came on watch but the dolphins were gone. Amazing!

Perhaps the most harrowing experience was tacking through the shipping lanes. We've never seen anything like it. Approaching Lisbon was a steady stream of tankers, container ships, cruise ships and fishing vessels. We've seen the shipping lanes all up and down the east coast of the US and this was WAY more than NY or Boston or anywhere. Finding a way across took both of us: one on the radar calling the speed and direction, the other at the helm translating to lights and altering course as necessary. We issued a pan pan radio notice and crossed at right angles as fast as we could. What a relief to be outside their route finally! It always happens at night.

We arrived in Lisboa early morning and enjoyed the sail up the lovely river. We took a slip at the Doca Alcantera, half way between the city of Lisbon and the town of Belem. There is a bike path the entire length of the waterfront and we have ridden everywhere. What a great city! There are so many palaces, cathedrals and museums. We saw a historical video and were amazed to learn about the Roman, Moorish, Iberian and French influences, the 16th C exporer routes to the orient, the earth quake and tidal wave that almost completely destroyed the city, the fall of the monarchy and the revolution of 1974 that finally led to democracy and EU participation. We've been here a week and plan to return. The people are so very nice, the food is excellent, the culture is rich and the transportation is visitor friendly. Alex thinks Portuguese sounds a lot like Ukrainian, and I love it! We will return.

Once again we are ready to head out, this time to Madeira, about a 5 day crossing if the winds are with us. But there is a stationary high over the Iberian peninsula and three days of no wind. So we wait. The window should open tomorrow and Aleria will fly out again. In the meantime we explore and enjoy the sun and 80 degree temps.

See you there!

Daria & Alex & Onyx